Cheating Fate
With a little help from its friends—OK, a lot of help—the
once-dead Cheat River is now very much alive.
Morgantown Magazine
11 August 2014
Written by Pam Kasey
Photographed by Elizabeth Roth
http://www.morgantownmag.com/morgantown/August-September-2014/Cheating-Fate/
In the spring of 1994, a hill in Preston County exploded. Millions
of gallons of bright orange mine drainage overwhelmed Muddy Creek,
then surged into the Cheat River at Albright. There was so much
pollution, and it was so acidic, it killed fish 15 miles
downriver.
Any recovery that took place in the year that followed was wiped
out by a second blowout in ’95. “There were no fish in the river
at all,” says longtime resident, fisherman, and paddler Ron
Cunningham. “The blowouts killed all the aquatic life.” The
recreation, too. The Cheat Canyon had been one of the most popular
commercial white water rafting destinations in the country.
Rafting trips declined by half.
Twenty years later, ask people in Morgantown about the Cheat River
and you could get answers ranging from “I took my kids tubing
there last weekend” to “amazing white water” to, yes, “great
fishing.” The Cheat is back from the dead. “We’re having a
revival,” says Amanda Pitzer, executive director of Friends of the
Cheat, the organization working to preserve the river. “The water
quality is better than it’s been in 50 years, and more people are
coming to the river. It’s a comeback story.”
Overcoming the Past
To fully appreciate the lush, hale beauty of today’s Cheat River,
you have to understand the exploitation in its past. Like most of
the state’s forested highlands, the watershed was logged in the
20th century. Clearcutting in the upper reaches led to wildfires,
soil erosion, and sedimentation and warming of the cool mountain
streams.
While the lower watershed was timbered, it was even more heavily
mined for coal—from seams that, unfortunately for water quality,
produce acidic, metals-contaminated drainage when exposed to air
and water. The blowouts were, in one sense, a gift: the
impossible-to-ignore extreme of an acid mine drainage problem the
river had suffered for decades. By the turn of the 21st century,
agencies had cataloged more than 60 abandoned mine sites
discharging acid drainage into the Cheat’s streams.
Trees grow back. Today, mostly by virtue of time having passed,
the watershed is more than 80 percent forested. Overcoming the
legacy of mining, on the other hand, requires fundraising and
grant writing, property deals, expert design and engineering, and
long-term maintenance. Outraged locals formed Friends of the Cheat
(FOC) in 1994 to do just that. The organization and its partners
have installed 15 treatment systems at a cost of more than $9
million and have two more planned for 2015. Through the
organization’s famously collaborative work, fish have returned to
all of the Cheat mainstem and even to some mine drainage-damaged
tributaries. And with the fish, other wildlife are returning, too.
“Now we’ve got eagles,” Ron says. “And bears.”
Soon, a 27-mile stretch of the river, from Pringle Run below
Rowlesburg all the way to Cheat Lake, is expected to come off the
state’s list of impaired waters. “That means the pH is healthy
enough to sustain fish the whole way through the river,” Amanda
crows. “I would say a lot of old-timers around here never thought
that could happen.”
Cheat as Playground
The Cheat watershed now offers hundreds of miles of thriving
streams and riparian landscapes for paddling, fishing, hiking,
camping, and even winter recreation. The river and its tributaries
lavish us with every kind of Appalachian stream experience. In the
upper watershed, Blackwater Falls inundates the senses, while
Shavers Fork’s remote pools and riffles hold some of the best
trout fishing anywhere around. Where the forks meet at Parsons,
the mainstem starts out calm and gentle; below Rowlesburg it
shimmers almost surreal, with giant boulders strewn across the
wide, shallow riverbed for miles.
Farther downstream, some of the Cheat’s most dramatic landscapes
are right in Morgantown’s backyard. The river squeezes from
hundreds of feet across to just 10 in some places, as it rollicks
and roars through Cheat Canyon from Albright to Jenkinsburg
Bridge. The view from Coopers Rock State Forest overlook takes
your breath away. And downriver, the wildness gives way to
relaxing flatwater on the 13-mile-long Cheat Lake reservoir before
entering the Monongahela River just over the Pennsylvania border.
It’s the paddling in particular that earned the Cheat River wide
renown, seen in FOC’s roster of dues-paying members from as far
away as California, Saskatchewan, and New Zealand. Above a
low-head dam at Albright, the Cheat is said to be the longest
stretch of undammed river east of the Mississippi—meaning long
paddling trips are possible on a river that flows freely, in its
natural state. Class I to III rapids in the Narrows make for good
family fun, while Class III to IV and, at highest water, V, rapids
in the wild Canyon thrill even the most experienced paddlers.
A Recent Success
An even longer conservationist effort paid off this past
spring. Before the Cheat Canyon was killed by acid mine drainage
in the ’90s, before it drew thousands of paddlers from states away
to its white water in the ’80s, the canyon was already a target
for conservationists who wanted to protect it from any more
timbering. “Folks have always talked about the Cheat Canyon as a
unique wild place with rare animals, endangered and threatened
species, and a rugged landscape that should be protected,” Amanda
says. She refers especially to the federally threatened
flat-spired three-toothed snail that lives in the canyon and
nowhere else. “The canyon is the background for the beautiful
overlook at Coopers Rock and the canyon’s water quality affects
that at Cheat Lake, so it’s a critical place.”
After several failed attempts over the decades, The Nature
Conservancy and The Conservation Fund succeeded in April 2014 in
purchasing nearly 4,000 acres from timberland investment
organization The Forestland Group. The purchase represents almost
every part of the canyon, rim to rim, that wasn’t already
protected in some other way.
“Everybody who’s guided down there has sort of had this dream that
that place would be protected,” says Adam Webster. Adam describes
himself as “kind of a Cheat weirdo—and not the only one.” He
guided rafting trips down the canyon from after the second blowout
in ’95 through about 2003 and guesses he’s been down the river
maybe 100 times, and he sees the improvement in the water quality
and the return of insects, fish, and other wildlife. He’s also
hiked, hunted, and photographed the canyon. “There’s something
very wild about the Cheat Canyon,” he says. “It used to be this
weird juxtaposition of this absolutely stunning, eye-catching
river cutting through the canyon, but so polluted. It’s a very
remote place so, to really understand what the significance of the
river’s recovery is, you have to go down in there and experience
it.”
That will soon be easier than ever. The new land purchase will be
managed by the West Virginia Division of Natural Resources and
will be open to the public. FOC looks forward to seeing the
Allegheny Trail re-routed back through the canyon and to creation
of a mid-canyon access point for boating that would allow for
shorter trips.
The Cheat’s Future
While the Cheat is cleaner than it’s been in decades, not all of
the sources of acid drainage are being treated yet. What’s left is
more expensive than what’s been treated in the past, at a time
when federal and state resources for treatment are dwindling. And
the remaining sites are more complicated, too, sometimes calling
for controversial and outside-the-box thinking. “Fickey Run is so
bad, we’re never going to restore that stream. We’re really
looking at in-stream dosing—releasing lime slurry directly into
the stream to see benefits downstream in Muddy Creek and the
mainstem,” Amanda says. “That would require collaboration across
the board and a lot of money but, until we can tackle Fickey Run,
which is a quarter of the entire pollution load on Muddy Creek, we
can only get so far.”
But with the river revived from the dead, FOC has also been able
to focus on new ways to enjoy the watershed. The organization
launched an Upper Cheat River Water Trail of family-friendly
flatwater from Hendricks to Rowlesburg in 2013, now with nine
access points and more in development.
Driving times from Morgantown:
- Blackwater Falls State Park, 1 hour 45 minutes
- Stuart Recreation Area on Shavers Fork, 1 hour 45 minutes
- Hendricks, head of the Upper Cheat River Water Trail, 1
hour 35 minutes
- Cheat River Festival site north of Albright, 45 minutes
- Coopers Rock State Forest overlook, 20 minutes
- Cheat Lake Park, 30 minutes
And the long-anticipated Cheat River and Kingwood-Tunnelton
rail-trails, in the works for more than a decade, could come to
fruition at any time. “In the last year and a half we’ve leveraged
a half-million dollars for the Kingwood-Tunnelton project, a lot
as a result of the Northern Railroad water tower getting on
Preservation Alliance’s list of endangered properties in 2012,”
Amanda says. “We’re totally funded to purchase both trails now and
we have the support of the community. If we can work it out with
CSX and get the documents signed soon, we could have small
sections of hikeable-bikeable trail by the fall of 2015.”
The best hope for the Cheat’s future is for people to get out on
the river and learn what makes it special, Amanda says. The
designation of Cheat River rafting as “WildEST Outdoor Activity”
in the Greater Morgantown Convention and Visitors’ Bureau’s 2014
ESTY Awards will help—but the recovering river remains a largely
undiscovered playground. Amanda encourages people to get out and
do anything on the Cheat. “Come and visit the wilder side of
Morgantown.”
How to Enjoy the Cheat
Sun worshipper? Grab a beach towel and find a big rock
along the river on State Route 72—the Cheat River Byway—south of
Kingwood.
Like to watch? During low flow periods, go to the part of the
Cheat Narrows called “Fascination Alley” and watch the squirt
boaters paddle the currents under the surface of the water. Or
take in the view of the Cheat Canyon from Coopers Rock overlook.
Want to learn? Padlz at Bruceton Mills, right off Exit 23 of
I-68, gives paddling lessons. Make a night of it: Thursday nights
there’s free music at the dam, and you can get some pizza and ice
cream in town.
Got your own equipment? Check out the Upper Cheat Water
Trail. You can tube it in low water, or take your own canoe or
inflatable kayak when it’s higher.
Prefer to fish? The Water Trail section, above Rowlesburg, is
also great for smallmouth bass. The area is stocked with rainbow
and brown trout, too.
Need a rush? Among West Virginia outfitters, Blackwater
Outdoor Adventures offers family-friendly trips on the Narrows and
Cheat River Outfitters guides paddlers through the canyon.
Join the celebration. Supporters celebrate the year’s
successes with a day of music, food, and river fun at Cheat River
Festival every May near Albright.